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How To Repair Hole In Motorcycle Exhaust

Author Message kramdra This post is not existence displayed .
kramdra
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Post Posted: xv:54 - 08 Sep 2017 Post subject field: Frazzle wrap over holes Reply with quote

Recently had a couple backfires while riding, they take blew a couple of pea sized holes in my ageing stainless downpipes, which is getting thin. Only five years one-time but 50k miles.

If I wrap the collector portion where the holes are appearing, this should cease fresh air getting in, proceed it tranquility, and allow mot to pass in Novemeber?

Is this any expert? www.ebay.co.great britain/itm/182567052876

Plan to change bikes side by side yr later on she hits 100k, so non buying a new exhaust.

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Post Posted: 16:16 - 08 Sep 2017 Post discipline: Reply with quote

Cut a department of steel can (broiled bean etc) that covers the holed department and wraps neatly round information technology. Rub the pipe down with some wire wool to remove any rust and degrease it.

Utilize gun gum liberally to the back of your bit of tin can. Wrap it tightly round the pipe and secure by firmly wrapping garden wire circular and round it.

Now put your exhaust cast over the height of that and secure with more than wire wrapped round information technology in a spiral. If y'all're feeling smashing, jubilee prune elevation and bottom communicable botht the can patch and the bandage.

Run the engine slowly up to temperature to cure the gungum and bandage.

From experience, the above will either fail near immediately or last for years.

Information technology's been a long time since I've had to do that. I would be very tempted to substitute plumbers silicone for gun gum after recent feel of sealing exhausts and wood burning stoves with it.
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Post Posted: 01:45 - 09 Sep 2017 Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using epoxy putty on mine, works for a while (week or two) then more than rust around the periphery allows it to blow out. Works improve on the silencer tbh, and y'all have to "work" it so some of the putty is within the pipe, worked underneath the edges for it not to blow directly out again.....
(Passed an mot, as not leaking./ subconscious with fresh ht paint... just demand to weld properly now as 5.30 am start for piece of work with currently noisy piping will piss off neighbours)

Gungum, equally mentioned by Stink, can work if done properly, ie, sandwiched, as he suggested, but it is brittle and flakey, doesn't like getting wet.

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Post Posted: 13:23 - 09 Sep 2017 Post subject field: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Cutting a section of steel can (broiled edible bean etc) that covers the holed section and wraps neatly round it. Rub the pipage down with some wire wool to remove any rust and degrease it.

Utilize gun gum liberally to the back of your flake of can. Wrap it tightly circular the piping and secure by firmly wrapping garden wire round and round it.

Now put your exhaust bandage over the top of that and secure with more wire wrapped round it in a screw. If you lot're feeling keen, jubilee clip pinnacle and lesser catching botht the can patch and the bandage.

Run the engine slowly up to temperature to cure the gungum and bandage.

From experience, the above will either fail most immediately or last for years.

It's been a long time since I've had to do that. I would be very tempted to substitute plumbers silicone for gun gum after recent experience of sealing exhausts and wood called-for stoves with information technology.

I second this, i used a can on my exhaust which passed an MOT no trouble
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Post Posted: 06:46 - 18 Sep 2017 Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

Ive done stainless before. However information technology seems to be extremely sparse in places and probably past welding even for experienced tig.

Tig is a poor choice for exhaust repairs anyway.

Quote:

At back of collector it is croaky.

Which is probably the reason you run into balmy steel collectors in the center of stainless steel systems like on the Bandit. It'southward much less prone to cracking.
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Post Posted: 07:35 - 18 Sep 2017 Mail service subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
kramdra wrote:

Ive done stainless before. However it seems to be extremely thin in places and probably by welding even for experienced tig.

Tig is a poor choice for exhaust repairs anyway.

Quote:

At back of collector information technology is cracked.

Which is probably the reason y'all see mild steel collectors in the middle of stainless steel systems like on the Bandit. It's much less decumbent to cracking.


Really, why is TIG a poor selection ?
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Post Posted: 08:xviii - 18 Sep 2017 Mail subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

I can weld it. I have a decent mig spoolgun setup and a three/4 full botttle of argon. Ive washed stainless before. However it seems to exist extremely thin in places and probably past welding even for experienced tig. I am not welding it on the bike. I am not removing information technology from the cycle - its bent and will not get dorsum on!

At back of collector it is cracked. I have a wad of fiberglass, wrapped in stainless mesh, held on by a large hose clip. Its worked well for vii months. It does non need to be sealed or gas tight. I want to preclude oxygen getting in which will blow it autonomously, and some mild baffling would exist nice for the mot man. Gumgum will neglect first time it gets moisture.
I call back frazzle wrap plus loftier temp sillicone will probably do what I need. Thanks.

After reading this I really retrieve it is time to bite the bullet and supercede the exhaust Laughing
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Post Posted: eighteen:30 - 18 Sep 2017 Post subject: Reply with quote

Tankie wrote:

Actually, why is TIG a poor option ?

Leading question? Y'all've offered to repair it and then y'all should know.
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